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From : newlifeinbangkok
Added: Sep 28, 2009
Today I've made my furthest foray out of Bangkok to date, a 155 km (96 mile) trek north to Lop Buri, a provincial city where the pace is slower and the country's history is laid bare with many important historical ruins. I take the train from Hua Lamphong station, which is a half hour BTS and MRT transfer from my apartment. Hua Lamphong is Bangkok's main station and it always gives you the feeling that you are setting out on an adventure, trekking into uncharted territories (for me at least), it is all burbling diesel engines under a cavernous canopy. The trip to Lop Buri is slightly under two hours and taking the air-conditioned diesel railcar, one arrives pretty fresh and more than ready to spend the day exploring this ancient and significant city. Lop Buri is just under 80 kilometres north of the ancient capital of Ayutthaya so it has always been important and importantly positioned stop-off throughout history and can link itself to the earliest dynasties that cast wide their embrace over this rolling flat plain that starts at Bangkok. In particular it was of importance to the Dvaravati kingdom that held sway for 400 years after the seventh century until it then fell under Khymer power until the thirteenth century, although its new masters knocked down its landmarks to insert their own influences. Its proximity to Ayutthaya gave it much influence in the following years, and King Narai, who reigned in the seventeenth century, made it his second capital. Like most Thai stations, Lop Buri is neat and well kept, and the immediate advantage is that all the monuments, ruins and other places to explore are within walking distance of the station, meaning that one is able to dispense with the taxi and tuk-tuk drivers that are always so eager to take you the long way round and charge inflated prices as soon as they see you aren't Thai. The city's affinity with monkeys is hinted at by two huge, golden statues that bookend either end of the station. In fact after passing a long since decommissioned steam engine that is now a monument, the first ruined Wat (temple) is actually bang next to the station and leads right up to the platform edge. This particular temple, called Wat Bandi Hin, was built during the rein of King Narai the Great, according to an information board handily placed outside. Opposite the station approach road is Wat Phra Sri Ratana Mahathat, a large ruined temple site complete with a 12th- to 14th-century prang (spire). A couple more turns and we are thrust head first into bustling Lop Buri. Although the power base of this city ebbed southward a long time ago, it's still a busy town with a population of around 25-30,000. Next up is Pang Khaek, another ruin, from the 10th century according to the sign, which sits in the middle of a traffic island. This town has grown up around the ruins here, squeezing them hard in the search for valuable space,. However history cannot ever be shut out in Thailand and the brilliant handiwork of craftsmen that away passed from this planet hundreds and even thousands of years ago, always thrusts themselves forward for recognition, refusing to be chocked away in the 20th century inspired sprawls. From there it is a right turn past the Chao Phraya Wichayen House, the residence of the ambassadors, an impressive ruined facade, and left round the corner to Wat Sao Thong Thong, on France Road a neat complex of ornate 17th century temple buildings that are in rude health. In a map made by French engineers, the site is described as a residence for Persians with a mosque for Islamic religious rites, while there is a building that was once a residence for foreign emissaries, most probably sent to foster ties with Ayutthaya. Meanwhile just round the corner is a bustling day market which squeezes its stalls and their billowing covers through a cluster of side streets. Lop Buri is a delight to "browse", just follow the streets twists and turns to unlock its rich history. Along the road the doors of a business are flung wide open to reveal an elderly printing press noisily thumping out copy, the machine all bronzed castings and gleaming oiled pistons. Round the next corner are the towering walls of the Phra Naraj Rajaivet (King Narai's Palace), the centrepiece attraction of the city and a clear demonstration of the royal status Lop Buri once enjoyed. Built between 1665 and 1677, the ruins, I could see from the gate, are immaculately maintained, and there is also a museum reportedly stuffed with interesting historical artefacts. Unfortunately it was closed for lunch when we arrived and we never got round to going back.
Category : Travel

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